Hasler Vane Gear Worm Line

SPLICING THE WORM LINES V3J July 1969

1. Adjust the worm line for length, tying a knot so that there is at least 5" (127.00mm) of spare cord either side of the knot. Before cutting off spare worm line check that you still have 1 1/2 turns of it on the worm sheave, observing that it is possible for these turns to drop off when the line is slack. This must be done with the cord rove through the worm line block and any guides, but not necessarily through the latch gear, since this can be rove on the bite of the worm line.

   Use Viking brand No.8 plaited Terylene, as supplied. Take the thin piece of Stainless steel wire provided and bend it double.

1. Carefully untie the knot in the worm line and make a mark ‘x’ on both cords showing where they should be brought together. Cut off each end of line 5" (127.00mm) beyond these points. Release tension on the shock cord.

1. Insert the bight (the loop) of wire into cord ‘z’ (it will enter the plaited threads easily) at a point about 1 1/2" from ‘x’ and bring it out again at ‘x’. Thread the end ‘y’ into the bight of wire and draw the bight out of the way it went in, pulling ‘y’ with it. I.e. the two ends of the wire never enter the cord.

1. Draw end ‘y’ through cord ‘z’ until the two points ‘x’ are about 1/2" apart.

1. Insert the bight into cord ‘y’ at a point about 1 1/2" from ‘x’ and bring it out at ‘x’. Thread end ‘z’ into the bight and draw it through cord ‘y’.

1. Pull ends ‘y’ and ‘z’ simultaneously so that the two points ‘x’ come together.

1. Using the bite of wire thread each end in turn back into the other cord about 1/8" beyond its exit hole, then out again after 1 1/2". Repeat once more.
2. Pull both ends so that all the loops are drawn flat. Then work the splice to and fro through the latch gear for a minute or two, to let it settle down. Then snip off the short protruding ends. The residual ends will in due course disappear into the middle of the cord